Day-4 – 8th April-2011
Khaliya Top – Munsyari – Bageshwar – Thal – Berinag – Patal Bhuvneshwar (135 kms)
The countdown to solaris began at 0600 hrs and all of us were awake ; problem we did’t slept the entire night , so nothing else to do.The good news however was that rain gods have gone and it was clear sky.So we came out to see solaris rise from behind panchuli peaks and voila it was a sight to see.No camera can capture what we saw.The pics below are only a small section of what we saw there.
Solaris rises again behind panchuli peaks
A lil more 
and some more 
here comes Solaris 
Ganga ram started preparing the tea and we checked our clothes which were still not dry.Another problem we had was that we did not broght anything for breakfast.So we only had 3 small packets of biscuits and tea for breakfast.Now we wanted to go back to Khaliya top once again and ahad to reach patal bhuvneshwar before 1700 hrs.More about it later ; first we continue our quest to conquer Khaliya Top (aka Tololing , nick named by mohit).
The trek 
Another view of the trek 
Monal 
Deadline of 1700 hrs is because the Cave temples at patal bhuvneshwar closes after that.We did not have another day to spare and had to see it the same day so that we can leave for Delhi the next day.We did all the math and possibility of reaching patal bhuvneshwar were were less.In fight of Patal bhuvneshwar and khaliy khaliya won the battle.We started our journey to khaliya to aroung 0730 hrs and reached khaliya bhugyal by 0900 hrs.Today the scene was totally different , the sky was blue as the blue should be and mountains were white as they should be.For the first time we saw Nanda Devi (The highest peak in India) and the the complete range in it’s full glory.You just want to sit here , forever and keep staring those massive mountains.
View from Khaliya Bugyaal 
Trishul
Those massive creations 
After a while we discussed that weather we should go till the Khaliya summit or not.Shobhit was not interested to go further and seeing this mohit also did not wanted to go ahead.Even ganga ram said that views from top are not as good as from here…but I came to khaliya to see Panchuli from Khaliya summit..and I wanted to go.
“When you commit to conquer the summit ,
You have to do the summit and do not submit,
And initially you did commit to see the summit,
So now you do the summit”
because a summit is a summit”
3ree musketeers(Mohit,Shobhit & Rana)
So after a while I started alone towards the summit.Initially the summit seemed quite near but as I kept walking towards it seemed much far then expected.I kept walking and soon ganga ram realized that I am not going back before I reach the summit.So ganga ram also started to come towards the summit.Mohit was watching all this and he knew that I will not settle for anything less then khaliya summit.Finally he also started walking towards summit.I smiled and kept walking , here were rocks and there was snow , but kept going on till the point where there was no more path and just snow all around the khaliya summit.So I sat there and waited for ganga ram to arrive.
lets get closer 
That’s Khaliya Summit
More close shots
Nanda Devi
Panchuli Peaks from Khaliya Bugyaal
The views around
More views from the bugyaal
Ganga ram came and guided us to the top.It was steep and scary but we managed it somehow.To conquer the summit is a different feeling altogether.You reach the top and just sit there and keep staring the vast open space around.For few minutes you just go speechless and forget everything in the world.Feels like you’ve got Nirvana.
The 360 degree view from the summit
wherever you see
That’s where we came from
views on the right
views on the left
looking back 
After coming back to my senses few minutes later I checked my mobile GPS application to find the altitude , it shows shows altitude as 3720 mtrs.
We enjoyed there for some time and then it was time to head back.We reached Munsyari @ 1200 hrs and headed straight to Pandey lodge for lunch.Pandey ji was happy to have us back and discussed about our experience on the top.We had our lunch which was nice and started our journey towards Patal bhuvneshwar at 1300 hrs.We expect to reach Patal bhvneshwar before 1700 hrs.Deadline of 1700 hrs is because the Cave temples at patal bhuvneshwar closes after that.We did not have another day to spare and had to see it the same day so that we can leave for Delhi the next day.We did all the math and possibility of reaching patal bhuvneshwar before 1700 hrs were very acute.
Khaliya Top aka Tololing fateh 
Terrace farming on the way to patal Bhuvneshwar
But as we know God have other plans ; if he wants us to visit a place he will create situations and that’s what exactly happened.I stopped black bull at 1655 hrs in front of Patal Bhuvneshwar temple gate.
1st question to the shopkeeper while removing shoes – Is the temple open – Reply – looked at the watch and said may be and you should hurry.And 3 of us looked at each other and ran like cheetah (0-60 in 10 seconds).The small temple is good 500 mtrs inside and we reached there like that.
Again same question at temple entrance.Is the temple open – reply YES.
Voila we made it.135 kms non stop in 4 hrs in that twisted Jalebi road was quite a drive. Now some formalities to be done at the gate , No mobile , No camera (We had already left camera in car in hurry) so no issues there.Then the guy explains that a guide will take you inside the cave and you can pay him as per your wish ; also you can donate as per your wish here for the temple.This was something which I like – Pay as you wish.
There is usually one guide to show you around and you are not allowed to go without the guide.If the guide is not there you cannot go alone.The guide came and said that we were lucky as he was leaving for home when he saw 3 cheetahs running towards the temple.Unbelievable – True hospitality – The guide just came back to show us the temple.He explained that usually they don’t get visitors in evening and since his home is far away he generally leaves by 1700 hrs.He was still there as there was another group who was there just before us.The Patal bhuvneshwar temple is closed for visitors at 17:30 hrs.So anyone going there be sure you reach by 16:30 hrs.
You enter the temple and then there is small door and then a rock wall in front.As you approach the door you see there is a tunnel going down and rocks are cut to create stairs.The cave tunnel goes down aprox 90 feet.It is well lit and chains are attached all along but it’s steep almost 80 degrees decent.As you go down slowly you tend to think that if the cave is so small in the beginning what will happen when you reach down.But it’s quite the opposite , as you reach the base , the cave opens up and quite wide inside.I think around 20 to 30 people can easily stand tall once you reach the base.The guide waits for 3 of us to reach down and then starts the journey inside the cave.And let me tell you here that for the next 20 minutes he kept describing the surroundings in the caves and it’s history.We were stunned , such an amazing place and so little is known about it.I’m at loss of words to describe how I felt.Did not speak for the entire time I was inside and just kept looking around.I’m at shortage of words to describe the feeling.Anyone traveling in the region , DO NOT MISS Patal Bhuvneshwar.Even if I say that 15 kms of road from Berinag towards Gangolihaat is very bumpy ; the last 8 kms towards Patal bhuvneswar is good ; even if you cannot click pics inside the caves and even if you are scared of closed spaces deep inside earth.The place is a must visit ; it’s out of this world.
No pics from inside the cave temple as photography is not allowed , you got to go there to experience this one.
We gave donation at the temple and also a handsome amount to our guide.Had some snacks at the nearby shop and stayed in a resort curtsey Mohit’s contacts, don’t remember the name of resort .You can also stay in KMVN beside the temple.Nothing much to say after all this. Went to bed around 2200 hrs as tomorrow is a long journey back to Delhi.
