Bulls ride to WHITE Spiti

Day 3 – 20th April 2014

Woke up around 0700 hrs and the first thing I did was to go out of the room and check the weather. Ahhh , it’s bright and sunny. Both of us took this opportunity to dry or wet clothes and jacket while we fresh up. By 0900 hrs we were ready and loaded the luggage on bikes. Kaza is still 210 kms away and we were optimistic to reach Kaza before nightfall.

Day 3 Route Map

Good Morning Recong-Peo- Kinner Kailash
Kinner Kailash

Recong-Peo PWD rest house

Our first stop was @ Recong-peo petrol pump for tankfull ; next we wanted to gat TB baby and Jr.BB a wash as there was mud all over them. A quick wash and we were off on the road, as we came down to powari and took the diversion road for Puh , TB Baby started making strange screeching sound. A quick inspection revealed that the sound was coming from front disc brake. We thought that since we covered the entire Wangtoo – Peo stretch in rain and mud yesterday so the mud has gone into the disc brake and that’s creating the sound. We had no options but to continue, the screeching sound did fade away after few kms but did not go away completely. Aditya informed me later that it’s not only the sound but both front and rear brakes were not working properly. Our Conclusion : Disc brakes are not good for muddy tracks as the mud makes braking impossible and damages the disc pads , at least rear one should be drum brakes.Jr.BB did not have any braking issue though , front disc rear drum.

Vistas around while we waited for road to clear

After riding about 10 kms towards Puh we came to a halt as a long line of vehicles was waiting ahead of us. BRO is working on clearing the road. Road widening is in process + the landlslides ; the entire stretch till Puh has many places were traffic has to be stopped so that road can be cleared .We spent around 10 – 45 mins at about 4-5 such points till we reached puh. The entire 60 kms till puh is pebbles and stones and no tarmac ; add to that , continuous risk of falling stones . We keep switching by looking once towards the mountain then towards the road , we are moving @ 10 kmph. We reached Puh around 1430 hrs ; Yes , it took good 4.30 hrs to cover just 60 kms , that’s how bad the road is. There is a reason why this is called “World’s most treacherous road” , today we found that reason.

The roads

The UN-usual sign board


After Puh , the road suddenly finds tarmac and it is really nice to have good roads after a long time. The throttle is pushed and we sprint on good roads till we reach the Khab bridge.

Khab – Spiti meets Satluj

We spend some time admiring and looking at how the road has been carved out of solid rock. We move further to find super smooth black tarmac roads as the road quickly gains height on Kizags. It was wonderful riding on those Kizags. We reached Nako in no time as road was super good. Since we were racing against time to reach Kaza we could not take much photography breaks.

Khab Kizags

Nako Village

Looking back from Nako

The vistas around

TB Baby is happy looking at views around

Then came the most feared ; Malling ; the name sends shivers down the body of most people , we have heard so many horror stories about it and were waiting to see it. But today, malling was in good mood, no drama, no stones falling, no water crossing, not even a road block. We just breezed thru malling and thanked our stars. I think it was the extreme cold weather that’s what is making the difference, water was still frozen on the side walls and as the temperature rises by each passing day the water will come on the road. The good news is that a concrete road was being constructed at the water crossing point and was almost halfway done, by this time it would have been completed.

Malling Nala

Temple just before Malling Nala

As we crossed malling and headed towards Sumdo the black tarmac roads appeared again. It was time for us for a quick break and click some pics.

The star effect

Sumdo is not far now

it’s time for a quick nap for me

It was 16:45 hrs and we were still had long way to go to reach kaza. We decided to continue and see till what time we can continue. By the time we were near Tabo, it was already turning dark and temperature was freezing cold. We decided to stop at Tabo and check for accommodation options, luckily found the PWD caretaker on road and without much drama got the room.

Sayings on the mountain

PWD Tabo

The moon

Tabo Monestery

Caretaker informed us that, the entire Tabo village did not have any running water hence he will provide water in buckets and we can use the toilets. He also guided us to the only hotel open and asked us to inform the hotel guy to prepare food for you. After settling down in the room we realized that it was good decision to stop as it was indeed very very cold there. I was carrying a BSNL sim with me as informed by Jamaica, hence we were able to inform about whereabouts to friends and family. I called Jamaica and informed him about or location and that we will reach his place tomorrow morning. He was happy to hear from me and informed that if we reach before 1100 hrs we can cover Losar as well. I was surprised to know that road is opened till Losar, and we agreed to reach before 1100 hrs. It was great news, if Losar is opened it will be full of snow and this might be one chance to see what we came to see – WHITE SPITI. With nice thoughts of snow covered mountains and roads we had our dinner around 2100 hrs and slept peacefully.

Tomorrow we will finally reach Kaza and have a chance to even go further till Losar. No one has gone there on bikes this year and if we reach there we guys will be the first bikers of 2014 to reach Losar.

Did we reach Losar………?

Well we have to wait a little to get an answer to that.

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