Day 4 – 21st April 2014
We woke up by 06:00 hrs and by 0700 hrs were ready to resume our journey towards Kaza. There was lil bit of drama to freshen up as we were unable to find the caretaker when we woke up and were searching for water everywhere. After about 30 mins we finally found the caretaker who told us that water is there in the buckets kept in the washroom attached to our room. ROFL. That was the only place we didn’t looked for water. So once that was sorted out, we fresh up and had a tea and left for Kaza. It was cold but sun was shining, soon we started looking at snow covered mountains within our reach.
Day 4 Route Map
We carried on the bumpy road and stopped only once to reach our destination “Kaza”. Finally after all that happened in last 3 days , the accident , the rain , the night drive on slush filled roads , riding on the world’s most treacherous roads , bike problems and facing the extreme cold weather we have arrived at Kaza ; some 800 kms away from where we started. Perseverance has paid, we got tired in between but never gave up, with thumps up signs to each other, I and Aditya rode past the Kaza gate.
We headed straight for Jamaica’s KC lodge which was not hard to find as Jamaica was standing on the road to meet us. It was nice feeling to find someone you know at such a remote place. We went in and sat down with Jamaica discussing what all happened during our journey. We had tea and breakfast and unloaded the entire luggage. I inquired about availability of an Enfield mechanic in kaza as I was having some problems with Jr.BB skipping once in a while. The answer was in affirmative and he guided us to the shop. Since time did not permit us to visit him at the moment we planned to visit the next day. Jamica then told us that can we can go upto losar and he will be accompanying another client after some time. The plan was set; we will go to losar, have lunch there and come back to kaza. We started towards Losar around 1100 hrs and just after 7-8 kms there was snow everywhere. It was a wonderland and there were only 2 souls with their machines to be seen till miles.
We went speechless for some time looking at the sight and riding thru the section. The more we moved ahead the walls of snow rose higher and higher. At some section the snow walls were as high as 10-15 feet. There were some 8-10 water crossing as well which were negotiated well. As we moved ahead, snow started to appear in the middle of road and just 3-4 kms before Losar there was only snow and no tyre marks left. It was the most beautiful and adventurous ride till date we had done.
Finally we did see what we came to see – The White Spiti was here and we had made it. In course we also became the 1st bikers of 2014 to reach Losar. It was all white as it was a fairytale and we were in loss of words to describe the beauty of the place. It was time to have lunch as it was already 1500 hrs when we reached Losar. Serchu café was open so we ordered lunch there while we sat outside enjoying the views and soaking in bright sunlight.
Around 1545 a scorpio arrived at losar and we knew it was Jamaica with some clients. We chatted for some time and by 1615 hrs we headed back to kaza.We only had rode 5-6 kms when the sun went behind the mountains and the drama began around 1700 hrs. Jamaica in scorpio went past us and the temperature soon took a plunge towards Zero, now we were in getting into a trap.
We knew that temperature will go below zero pretty soon here and once that happens water on the roads will froze and we will be in no condition to ride. Our only hope of emergency rescue (Jamaica in Scorpio) has also gone past us and now we are alone. Kaza was still 55 kms away, the only option was to ride on and ride fast if you want to live; and that’s what we did, we went on a crazy ride back to kaza. 8-10 water crossings have now turned into 20 + with much more water, making crossing difficult and also making our clothes wet.
All that wonderful snow wonderland views had suddenly changed their state. They now look so daunting and asking the question, what did you think when you came here? I remembered a saying “The more beautiful a thing is, the more dangerous it is” this was a day of realization for me that the same wonderful views and snow can turn to be so dangerous in just matter of couple of hours.
Soon, brake lever and gear levers were frozen and boots were slipping while changing gears and braking, but we did not stop, we didn’t have an option to stop. By the time we reached half way mark it was a great relief to see Jamaica and scorpio waiting for us to go ahead. It was such a relief to see him. We did not stop and moved on despite extremely cold conditions and numerous water crossings on the way. We reached Rangrik when I realized that Aditya wants to stop, a quick stop and he asked me, why we are running so fast. I explained him about freezing water on the brake levers and soon it will freeze on the road making it impossible to ride. Without, waiting any more minute we zoomed off and only stopped when we reached Kaza. Kaza – Losar is 61 kms and we covered the distance in 5 hrs in morning, in evening we covered the same distance in 2 hrs. Fear of being stuck in between all that snow made that drive possible.
A short video shot after we reached the comfort of KC lodge in Kaza will give you an idea how cold it was. Video shot by Aditya while I’m removing my shoes. (Notice ; -I am wearing 3 layer of clothes in lower body , full body warmer + jeans + Heavy woolen lower)
After effects of Kaza – Losar drive
The rest of the evening was spent chatting with jamaica and 2 new friends, Vikas and Priyanka who came yesterday from Delhi by bus and were staying in KC lodge since yesterday. So for now, Kaza done, Losar done now what? Well there is hell lot to be seen once in Kaza. There is Kye, Kibber, Tashigang , Langza , Hikkim , Komic , Pinn Valley and an interesting journey back. Hold on guys, the best is yet to come.